Ancient Rome was a city of grandeur, opulence, and refined taste. At the heart of its culinary culture was an insatiable love for seafood, a delicacy that connected Rome to its vast empire through bustling trade routes and coastal cities.
For the Romans, seafood wasn’t just a source of sustenance; it was a symbol of sophistication and luxury, often reserved for grand feasts and gatherings of the elite.
One such delicacy that graced the tables of Rome’s wealthy was Mysorum in Vino, or Mussels in Wine Sauce—a dish inspired by De Re Coquinaria, the renowned Roman cookbook attributed to Apicius. This ancient recipe reveals the flavors, ingredients, and culinary expertise that defined the Roman palate.
Apicius & De Re Coquinaria
De Re Coquinaria, Latin for “On the Subject of Cooking,” is one of the earliest known cookbooks and a priceless artifact of culinary history.
Attributed to Marcus Gavius Apicius, a wealthy Roman gourmet with a passion for extravagant dishes, this cookbook captures the essence of Roman gastronomy. Apicius was known to travel across the empire in search of the finest ingredients and would spare no expense in creating elaborate meals. His cookbook, a collection of recipes gathered and refined over time, offers a glimpse into the opulent feasts of Rome’s elite, where flavor, presentation, and luxury were paramount.
In De Re Coquinaria, we find recipes for everything from roasted peacock to elaborate sauces, and, of course, mussels. Apicius’s recipe for mussels in wine sauce exemplifies the Roman love for bold, layered flavors and their penchant for rare and exotic ingredients. With the use of garum, dry wine, and herbs, Apicius elevates this simple seafood into a sophisticated dish that would have delighted the Roman upper class.
The Roman Port City of Ostia
The journey of these mussels to the Roman table begins in Ostia, the ancient port city located at the mouth of the Tiber River. As Rome’s primary maritime gateway, Ostia was a thriving center of commerce and culture.
Ships laden with goods from across the empire—grain from Egypt, wine from Gaul, spices from Asia, and fresh seafood from the Tyrrhenian Sea—arrived daily, feeding the insatiable demands of the Roman capital.
Mussels and other shellfish were abundant in the coastal waters near Ostia and were brought fresh to the city. The proximity of Ostia ensured that seafood arrived at the peak of freshness, making it a prized ingredient in Roman cuisine.
Ostia’s bustling fish markets and garum factories supplied the city with everything needed to prepare dishes like Apicius’s mussels in wine sauce. The port city was not just a place of trade; it was the beating heart of Rome’s culinary scene, linking the empire’s vast resources with the city’s elite kitchens.
Roman Elites’ Love of Seafood
To the Roman elite, seafood symbolized wealth, sophistication, and the connection to their empire’s far-reaching shores. Dishes featuring seafood were often reserved for lavish convivia (banquets) where guests reclined in the triclinium, a formal dining room with couches arranged in a U-shape around a central table.
These meals were as much about entertainment as they were about sustenance, with food presented in dramatic and artful ways.
Mysorum in Vino, or Mussels in Wine Sauce, was a dish fit for these grand banquets. The recipe combines the briny flavor of fresh mussels with rich ingredients like garum (a fermented fish sauce) and passito (a sweet wine), creating a sophisticated balance of flavors.
Roman elites prized such dishes, delighting in the flavors of the sea paired with the empire’s most luxurious ingredients. The addition of herbs like savory and cumin added complexity, while the passito provided a hint of sweetness that made each bite memorable.
The Dish Explained
Mysorum in Vino is a dish that reflects the essence of Roman cooking—bold, complex, and luxurious. The base flavor comes from the mussels, whose natural brininess is enhanced by garum, the iconic fermented fish sauce beloved by the Romans.
Garum adds an intense umami depth, creating a savory foundation for the dish. This is complemented by the dry white wine and passito (sweet wine), which together provide a balance of acidity and sweetness, lifting the flavors and adding a touch of indulgence.
The herbs and spices—fresh or dried savory, leek, and cumin—round out the dish with earthy, aromatic notes. Each ingredient serves a purpose, and together they create a harmonious flavor profile that would have delighted any Roman gourmet.
This dish not only tastes incredible but also tells the story of Rome’s empire, where diverse ingredients and culinary techniques converged to create something uniquely Roman.
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Mussels in Wine Sauce (Mysorum in Vino)
Ingredients
- 1 lb mussels cleaned
- 1/3 leek finely chopped
- 1 teaspoon fresh or dried savory
- 1/8 teaspoon cumin
- 1 tablespoon garum or fish sauce if garum is unavailable
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1/4 cup passito or another sweet wine
Instructions
Prepare the Mussels
- Clean the mussels thoroughly, discarding any that remain open after a light tap, as they may be unsafe to eat.
Cook the Aromatics
- In a large pan, heat a small amount of olive oil and sauté the finely chopped leek over medium heat until softened and fragrant, about 3-4 minutes.
Add the Wine and Garum
- Pour in the dry white wine, passito, and garum. Stir gently to combine, allowing the liquid to simmer for about 3-5 minutes to meld the flavors.
Add the Mussels
- Place the mussels in the pan, cover, and steam them in the wine sauce for about 5–7 minutes or until the mussels open. Stir occasionally to ensure even cooking.
Season with Herbs and Spices
- Add the savory and a pinch of cumin to the pan, stirring gently. The savory adds an herbaceous aroma, while the cumin introduces a hint of warmth.
Serve
- Once the mussels have opened, remove the pan from heat. Serve the mussels in a large bowl, pouring the wine sauce over them. Serve with rustic bread for dipping.
Video
Notes
- Garum Substitute: If garum is unavailable, fish sauce is a suitable substitute. Use sparingly, as fish sauce can be saltier. Adjust to taste.
- Passito Substitute: If passito is unavailable, substitute with a sweet wine like Moscato or a touch of honey added to a dry wine to replicate the sweetness.
- Freshness is Key: Mussels are best cooked fresh. Use them the day you buy them or store them on ice in the fridge for up to a day to maintain their quality and flavor.