Pumpkin pie has become an iconic symbol of Thanksgiving, evoking memories of festive gatherings and family traditions. But its origins trace back to one of the earliest American cookbooks, American Cookery by Amelia Simmons, published in 1796.
This rustic custard pie recipe reflects the ingenuity and simplicity of colonial cooking, where ingredients were fresh and unprocessed, and every dish was a labor of love. As we savor this dessert today, it’s worth delving into the real history of Thanksgiving, peeling back the myths to reveal its true origins, evolution, and how pumpkin pie came to symbolize this uniquely American holiday.
Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery Recipe for Pumpkin Pie
Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery holds a special place in culinary history as the first cookbook written and published in the United States. Her recipe for “Pompkin” (pumpkin) pudding—essentially a custard baked in a pastry shell—is one of the earliest records of what we now recognize as pumpkin pie.
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Simmons’ recipe embodies the simplicity of 18th-century American cooking, relying on wholesome, seasonal ingredients like pumpkin, fresh cream, and eggs. Unlike today’s store-bought pies laden with preservatives and artificial flavors, her pie celebrates the natural flavors of the time, a reflection of a farm-to-table ethos that defined early American kitchens.
The Truth About the First Thanksgiving
The Thanksgiving story many of us learned in school paints an idyllic picture of Pilgrims and Native Americans sharing a harmonious feast in 1621. While a harvest celebration did occur between the Pilgrims and the Wampanoag, the reality was far more complex.
The Pilgrims, having endured a brutal winter of starvation and disease, were in desperate need of help. The Wampanoag, led by Chief Massasoit, provided essential aid by teaching them to grow maize and hunt local game. This cooperation, however, was born of necessity. The Wampanoag, whose population had been devastated by European diseases, sought an alliance to strengthen their position against rival tribes like the Narragansett.
The 1621 feast was not the lavish turkey-and-pie banquet we imagine today. Instead, it likely included venison, wildfowl such as ducks or geese, maize, and seasonal vegetables like squash. There were no cranberry sauces, mashed potatoes, or pumpkin pies at the table.
Moreover, the narrative of unity and friendship often obscures the violent history that followed. The alliance between the Wampanoag and the Pilgrims unraveled over the decades, leading to land disputes, cultural suppression, and devastating wars such as King Philip’s War (1675–1678), which nearly destroyed the Wampanoag people.
The Evolution of Thanksgiving
Thanksgiving as we know it took centuries to develop. In colonial America, days of thanksgiving were sporadic, declared by religious or political leaders to mark specific events like harvests or military victories. These were often solemn, religious observances rather than festive meals.
The modern concept of Thanksgiving owes much to Sarah Josepha Hale, the editor of Godey’s Lady’s Book, who tirelessly campaigned for a national holiday to promote unity during a divided era. Her efforts culminated in President Abraham Lincoln’s 1863 proclamation, establishing Thanksgiving as a national holiday amidst the Civil War.
Over time, Thanksgiving became a family-centered celebration, with its own culinary traditions. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, roast turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and pumpkin pie had become staples of the holiday meal. This transformation into a cultural and culinary tradition reflects America’s evolving identity, blending historical narratives with the comforts of home-cooked food.
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Pumpkin Pie from 1796
Ingredients
- 1.5 cups pumpkin stewed and strained
- 2 cups cream or a mix of cream and milk
- 3/4 cup sugar adjust to taste
- 2 eggs beaten
- 1 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1 tsp ground ginger
- 1/2 tsp ground mace or cinnamon if unavailable
- Pastry for a 9-inch pie shell
Instructions
- Prepare the Pumpkin: Stew fresh pumpkin until soft, then strain it to remove excess liquid and create a smooth puree. (Canned pumpkin can be substituted, but fresh provides an authentic taste.)
- Make the Custard: In a large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin, cream, sugar, and spices. Gradually stir in the beaten eggs.
- Prepare the Pastry: Roll out the pastry and line a 9-inch pie dish, trimming and crimping the edges.
- Assemble the Pie: Pour the custard mixture into the prepared pie shell. Bake in a preheated oven at 375°F (190°C) for 45–50 minutes, or until the filling is set and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.
- Cool and Serve: Let the pie cool completely before serving. A dollop of whipped cream makes a perfect accompaniment.
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Notes
- Pumpkin Preparation: For an authentic taste, use fresh pumpkin. Stew and strain it to achieve a smooth puree, but canned pumpkin is a convenient substitute if needed.
- Spice Adjustments: If mace is unavailable, substitute it with cinnamon or increase the nutmeg slightly for a similar flavor profile.
- Custard Consistency: The pie filling should be smooth and slightly thick before baking. If it appears too thin, add an extra egg to stabilize the mixture.