Roman Stuffed Doormice: Glis-Glis

When we think of the extravagant feasts of Ancient Rome, images of grand banquets laden with exotic delicacies come to mind. Among these, few dishes capture the essence of Roman indulgence quite like glis-glis, or stuffed dormice. This dish, documented in Apicius’ famous cookbook “De Re Coquinaria,” was a delicacy served at elite Roman feasts, symbolizing both wealth and excess. Romans didn’t just eat dormice—they fattened them in special clay jars (gliraria), stuffed them with rich fillings, and coated them with sweet and savory glazes before roasting them to perfection.

While dormice were once a Roman status symbol, today, we can recreate the flavors of this historic dish using chicken drumsticks as a substitute, mimicking the rich, nutty stuffing and honeyed glaze that made this delicacy so sought after. This modern adaptation allows us to experience a taste of the past, minus the rodents!

When we think of the extravagant feasts of Ancient Rome, images of grand banquets laden with exotic delicacies come to mind. Among these, few dishes capture the essence of Roman indulgence quite like glis-glis, or stuffed dormice. This dish, documented in Apicius’ famous cookbook “De Re Coquinaria,” was a delicacy served at elite Roman feasts, symbolizing both wealth and excess. Romans didn’t just eat dormice—they fattened them in special clay jars (gliraria), stuffed them with rich fillings, and coated them with sweet and savory glazes before roasting them to perfection.

While dormice were once a Roman status symbol, today, we can recreate the flavors of this historic dish using chicken drumsticks as a substitute, mimicking the rich, nutty stuffing and honeyed glaze that made this delicacy so sought after. This modern adaptation allows us to experience a taste of the past, minus the rodents!

The Roman Love Affair with Dormice

Dormice were not just food in Ancient Rome; they were a status symbol. These tiny rodents were specially bred in gliraria, ceramic enclosures where they were fed a rich diet to fatten them up before being turned into a delicacy. The wealthier the host, the more elaborate the preparation, with dormice often served stuffed with nuts and herbs, roasted whole, or coated in honey and poppy seeds.

The dish was most commonly served at lavish dinner parties (convivia) as part of the gustatio (appetizer course). Alongside dormice, other luxurious starters like pickled fish, garum-spiced meats, and exotic fruits would be presented to impress guests. This was not just about taste—it was about demonstrating power, luxury, and Rome’s control over far-reaching territories that provided such exotic foods.

A Recipe from Apicius: The Origins of Stuffed Dormice

The first known recipe for stuffed dormice appears in “De Re Coquinaria,” the oldest surviving Roman cookbook, attributed to Marcus Gavius Apicius, a wealthy gastronome of the 1st century CE. The original recipe called for stuffing the dormice with a mixture of minced pork, crushed nuts, and black pepper, sewing them shut, and then roasting or boiling them in broth before serving. The use of honey and poppy seeds for glazing added a layer of sweetness to balance the savory richness of the filling.

Apicius’ recipe reflects Rome’s love for blending sweet, savory, and spiced flavors, a trait that set its cuisine apart from that of other ancient cultures. This method of cooking also highlights the Roman preference for intensely seasoned dishes, utilizing imported spices and nuts from across the empire.

Lucullus: Rome’s Ultimate Feast Master

No discussion of extravagant Roman feasting would be complete without mentioning Lucius Licinius Lucullus, the most famous banquet host of the Late Republic. A former general turned elite gastronomic connoisseur, Lucullus was known for hosting feasts that rivaled even those of the emperors. His villas boasted artificially stocked fish ponds, exotic gardens, and imported delicacies from across the Mediterranean.

Stuffed dormice, or glis-glis, were a regular feature at Lucullus’ feasts, often served alongside spiced wines, honey-glazed fruits, and freshly baked flatbreads. His dedication to indulgence was so legendary that the phrase “a Lucullan feast” is still used today to describe an overly lavish meal. If there was ever a dish that defined Roman excess, it was this one.

For modern cooks looking to recreate the indulgence of Lucullus’ legendary feasts, we present this adaptation of stuffed dormice, replacing dormice with chicken drumsticks, but maintaining the authentic Roman flavors of nuts, spices, honey, and poppy seeds.

Roman-Style Stuffed “Dormice” (Chicken Drumstick Version)

Stuffed “Dormice” – Glis-Glis

Stuffed dormice, or glis-glis, were a luxurious delicacy enjoyed by Rome’s elite, often served at extravagant feasts hosted by figures like Lucius Licinius Lucullus. This dish, recorded in Apicius’ “De Re Coquinaria”, involved fattening dormice in clay enclosures (gliraria) before stuffing them with a rich mixture of pork, nuts, and spices, roasting them, and finishing with a honey-poppy seed glaze. Because dormice were considered a symbol of status and indulgence, they were frequently presented as an appetizer (gustatio) at elite banquets, showcasing Rome’s ability to procure exotic and rare foods. This modern adaptation replaces dormice with chicken drumsticks, keeping the historically accurate flavors of pine nuts, walnuts, black pepper, and asafoetida for the stuffing. The drumsticks are roasted until golden, then glazed with honey and poppy seeds, creating a sweet, nutty, and savory flavor profile reminiscent of Ancient Rome’s love for decadent dishes. Whether served at a historical dinner party or as part of a Roman-inspired feast, this dish provides a taste of the indulgence that once defined the empire’s dining culture.

Prep Time 10 minutes mins

Cook Time 30 minutes mins

Ingredients

  

• 3 chicken drumsticks skin-on for crispiness
• ¼ cup pine nuts crushed
• ¼ cup walnuts crushed
• ½ tsp black pepper
• ¼ tsp asafoetida or garlic powder if unavailable
• 1 tbsp olive oil for cooking
• 2 tbsp honey
• 1 tbsp poppy seeds

Instructions

 

Prepare the Nutty Filling:

• In a mortar and pestle, crush the pine nuts and walnuts into a coarse mixture.
• Add black pepper and asafoetida, mixing well.

Stuff the Chicken Drumsticks:

• Carefully loosen the skin of each drumstick to create a pocket.
• Fill the pocket with the nut mixture, pressing it down gently.
• Smooth the skin back over to seal in the stuffing.

Roast the Drumsticks:

• Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).
• Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan over medium heat and sear the drumsticks until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side.
• Transfer to a baking dish and roast for 25-30 minutes, until the meat is cooked through.

Glaze with Honey & Poppy Seeds:

• In a small bowl, mix the honey and poppy seeds.
• In the last 5 minutes of baking, brush the drumsticks generously with the honey mixture.
• Return to the oven and bake until the glaze is caramelized.

Serve Like a Roman Feast Master:

• Arrange the drumsticks on a platter lined with fig leaves or grape leaves.
• Garnish with extra crushed nuts and a drizzle of honey.
• Serve warm alongside flatbread, olives, and spiced wine.

Video

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Notes

• A Delicacy Fit for the Elite: Romans fattened dormice in clay pots before preparing them with honey, nuts, and spices, much like modern foie gras.

 

• The Sweet-Savory Roman Flavor Profile: Romans loved mixing savory meats with honeyed glazes. The combination of poppy seeds, nuts, and honey was common in elite Roman cuisine.

 

• Alternative Historical Cooking Methods: Instead of roasting, Romans also boiled stuffed dormice in broth to keep the meat tender. Try a slow-cooked version by simmering the drumsticks in a spiced wine reduction for extra richness.

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