Pasta is one of the most beloved and versatile foods in the world, forming the backbone of Italian cuisine and inspiring countless dishes globally. However, its true origins have been debated for centuries, with competing claims that it was invented in China, Rome, or the Middle East.
While many believe Marco Polo introduced pasta to Italy from China in the 13th century, historical evidence suggests that pasta-like dishes existed in multiple civilizations long before his time. In this post, we’ll examine the historical sources that trace pasta’s origins, uncover which culture invented it first, and explore its evolution through ancient cookbooks and culinary traditions.
Ancient Pasta: Historians Uncover Its Origins
The notion that Marco Polo brought pasta from China to Italy has been widely circulated, but historians have long disputed this claim. In reality, pasta—or noodle-like dishes made from grains and water—existed in various cultures thousands of years before Marco Polo’s travels in the late 13th century. John Dickie, in Delizia! The Epic History of Italians and Their Food, addresses the myth of Marco Polo bringing pasta to Italy: “The story that it was Marco Polo who imported noodles to Italy and thereby gave birth to the country’s pasta culture is the most pervasive myth in the history of Italian food.”
The oldest recorded references to noodles come from China, where a 4,000-year-old bowl of millet noodles was discovered at the Lajia archaeological site in northwestern China in 2005. This find, preserved in an overturned clay bowl, proved that China had been making noodles from millet long before wheat became a staple grain in the region. Ancient Chinese texts such as the Han Dynasty records (c. 206 BCE–220 CE) also describe the process of making noodles from various grains, indicating that wheat-based pasta was later introduced and refined over time.
Alfonso López, in The Twisted History of Pasta, comments on the independent development of pasta in different regions: “Given how simple pasta is and how close it is to bread, it is highly probable that it was developed independently in China and other places.”
Meanwhile, the Middle East played a crucial role in pasta’s development. Arabic culinary traditions from at least the 9th century CE mention a dried pasta known as “itriyya”, which was made from wheat and could be stored for long periods—perfect for trade and long journeys. A 9th-century text by Ibn al-Mibrad from modern-day Iraq describes boiled dough strips resembling vermicelli, one of the earliest clear references to what we might recognize as pasta today. The word itriyya later made its way to Sicily through Arab traders, influencing early Italian pasta-making traditions.
The Roman Empire also had its own pasta-like dishes. While they did not have the modern pasta we recognize today, they consumed laganae, a form of flat dough sheets that were cut into strips and cooked, similar to lasagna.
The Roman writer Apicius, in his cookbook De Re Coquinaria (4th century CE), includes recipes for laganae, which were often layered with sauces, meat, and cheese. However, these early Roman dishes were not boiled like modern pasta but rather baked or fried, indicating a transitional stage in pasta’s evolution.
Who Invented Pasta First?
If we define pasta as a combination of flour and water (or eggs) shaped into various forms and then cooked, then China holds the oldest evidence of noodle-making, dating back to at least 2000 BCE. However, if we look at dried pasta as we know it today, the Middle Eastern itriyya from the 9th century CE provides the first clear reference. Meanwhile, ancient Rome contributed an early form of pasta-like dishes, but they were structurally different from what we consider pasta today.
The Arab influence on Sicilian pasta-making was one of the most direct paths that led to pasta’s integration into European cuisine. By the 12th century, dried pasta production was flourishing in Sicily, where it became a staple food due to its long shelf life and adaptability. This development was crucial because dry pasta was easier to store and transport, allowing it to spread rapidly across the Mediterranean.
While no single civilization can claim full ownership of pasta, the Chinese were likely the first to create noodle-like dishes, the Romans helped refine dough-based dishes, and the Arabs revolutionized pasta by creating dried versions that could be mass-produced and traded. Thus, the pasta we know today is a culinary evolution shaped by multiple cultures over thousands of years.
The Evolution of Pasta Throughout the Ages
Pasta continued to evolve throughout history, adapting to different regions, climates, and culinary needs.
During the Middle Ages (5th–15th century CE), Italy became one of the leading producers of pasta, particularly in Sicily, Naples, and Genoa. By the 13th and 14th centuries, written records from Italian merchants described pasta production and exportation, highlighting its importance as a staple food. One of the earliest references to pasta in Italy appears in 1154 in the writings of Arab geographer Al-Idrisi, who describes dry pasta being produced in Sicily.
By the Renaissance period (15th–17th century CE), pasta had spread throughout Europe, with new shapes and varieties emerging. In the 16th century, the introduction of tomatoes from the Americas further transformed pasta, leading to the creation of tomato-based sauces, which became a defining feature of Italian cuisine.
The 18th and 19th centuries saw the industrialization of pasta-making, particularly in Naples, where mechanical pasta presses allowed for mass production of dried pasta. This helped standardize pasta shapes like spaghetti, macaroni, and penne, making them widely available. Italian immigrants in the 19th and early 20th centuries brought pasta to the United States, South America, and beyond, solidifying its global popularity.
Today, pasta exists in hundreds of varieties, with different cultures contributing their unique interpretations. Asian noodles, Middle Eastern dumplings, German spaetzle, and Eastern European pierogi all share similarities with pasta, proving that the concept of flour-based dough transformed into a nourishing dish is universal.
Pasta: A Dish with Many Origins
The origin of pasta is not tied to a single culture but rather an ongoing evolution of grain-based dishes across different civilizations. While China holds the oldest known reference to noodles, the Middle East played a key role in developing dried pasta, and Italy ultimately refined it into the dish we know today. The interconnectedness of global trade, conquest, and migration helped shape pasta into one of the world’s most beloved foods.
Ultimately, pasta’s rich history highlights the shared culinary heritage of humanity. Whether it’s Chinese lamian, Arab itriyya, Roman laganae, or Italian spaghetti, the love for pasta has transcended time and borders, making it a true global dish.
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