Stuffed dormice, or glis-glis, were a luxurious delicacy enjoyed by Rome’s elite, often served at extravagant feasts hosted by figures like Lucius Licinius Lucullus. This dish, recorded in Apicius’ "De Re Coquinaria", involved fattening dormice in clay enclosures (gliraria) before stuffing them with a rich mixture of pork, nuts, and spices, roasting them, and finishing with a honey-poppy seed glaze. Because dormice were considered a symbol of status and indulgence, they were frequently presented as an appetizer (gustatio) at elite banquets, showcasing Rome’s ability to procure exotic and rare foods.
This modern adaptation replaces dormice with chicken drumsticks, keeping the historically accurate flavors of pine nuts, walnuts, black pepper, and asafoetida for the stuffing. The drumsticks are roasted until golden, then glazed with honey and poppy seeds, creating a sweet, nutty, and savory flavor profile reminiscent of Ancient Rome’s love for decadent dishes. Whether served at a historical dinner party or as part of a Roman-inspired feast, this dish provides a taste of the indulgence that once defined the empire’s dining culture.
Prep Time 10 minutesmins
Cook Time 30 minutesmins
Ingredients
3chicken drumsticksskin-on for crispiness
¼cuppine nutscrushed
¼cupwalnutscrushed
½tspblack pepper
¼tspasafoetidaor garlic powder if unavailable
1tbspolive oilfor cooking
2tbsphoney
1tbsppoppy seeds
Instructions
Prepare the Nutty Filling:
In a mortar and pestle, crush the pine nuts and walnuts into a coarse mixture.
Add black pepper and asafoetida, mixing well.
Stuff the Chicken Drumsticks:
Carefully loosen the skin of each drumstick to create a pocket.
Fill the pocket with the nut mixture, pressing it down gently.
Smooth the skin back over to seal in the stuffing.
Roast the Drumsticks:
Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).
Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan over medium heat and sear the drumsticks until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side.
Transfer to a baking dish and roast for 25-30 minutes, until the meat is cooked through.
Glaze with Honey & Poppy Seeds:
In a small bowl, mix the honey and poppy seeds.
In the last 5 minutes of baking, brush the drumsticks generously with the honey mixture.
Return to the oven and bake until the glaze is caramelized.
Serve Like a Roman Feast Master:
Arrange the drumsticks on a platter lined with fig leaves or grape leaves.
Garnish with extra crushed nuts and a drizzle of honey.
Serve warm alongside flatbread, olives, and spiced wine.
A Delicacy Fit for the Elite: Romans fattened dormice in clay pots before preparing them with honey, nuts, and spices, much like modern foie gras.
The Sweet-Savory Roman Flavor Profile: Romans loved mixing savory meats with honeyed glazes. The combination of poppy seeds, nuts, and honey was common in elite Roman cuisine.
Alternative Historical Cooking Methods: Instead of roasting, Romans also boiled stuffed dormice in broth to keep the meat tender. Try a slow-cooked version by simmering the drumsticks in a spiced wine reduction for extra richness.